Wednesday, February 1

Food for Thought: A 12 yr old learns the true price of food, taking the "Omnivore’s Dilemma" to heart.


 I recently received an extraordinarily eloquent email from a former guest & cooking class student, twelve year old Noah, sharing his emotional experience slaughtering a chicken at camp. (We met Noah & the rest of his family last year when they came to cook, he was one of the most engaged & well-informed students we ever had, no matter the age.) This is worth the read and even more amazing when you realize he is just a kid, who understands more about where his food comes from & his connection to it than most adults grocery shopping for their families.

His words perfectly capture my feelings, not only the heart-pounding experience of our first chicken slaughter but why we proudly raise our animals to eat.

 Here is an excerpt of Noah's essay:

Life is a journey, ups and downs included. Along that way, sudden realizations spring across your path, and there is no other option but to experience and consequently be changed by them. One of those striking moments happened to me at Farm and Wilderness camp last summer, when I slaughtered a chicken.

Without electricity and not much  contact with the outside world, growing our own food was a necessity, and that  included slaughtering our own meat. Doubtfully, I scribbled my name on a list  spotted with grimy fingerprints, feeling like it was my own death sentence  instead of a bird's. One misty Sunday later I stood under a tent, watching  others kill, pluck, and butcher their chickens. The line shortened, and suddenly  I was next. The chicken was on the stump, its fiery plumage dully gleaming with  the glare of midday.  My axe was raised, and I swung. I will never forget what it felt like
The axe burrowed deep into the wood, and where a living thing stood  before there was now just unprocessed meat.

With tears on  my face, we went through the process, and in less than 10 minutes, a  living chicken was turned into one of the carcasses that are kept in the refrigerated meats section at a grocery store. This was the true price of food, a lesson hard learned but important. After, I saw the food on my plate with more gratitude and respect than before. I decided  that, as a chicken eater, I should experience how it gets on my plate. Before camp, I had never made the connection between "farm and fork." Chickens, as well as other meats and produce, went into one end of the agribusiness factories as raw materials and came out the other end as things I could eat. I had read the Omnivore's Dilemma for Kids many times, but to see what was meticulously described was completely different. 
I realized what the true price of food was and it isn't $3.99 a pound. 
It is hours of work, having to get up at  6:00 am on cold rainy mornings to feed the chickens, and, ultimately, an animal's life. To quote Michael Pollan, "meat doesn't come in sealed plastic  bags."  But with that understanding came another feeling, a feeling of pride. Not  because I had killed a chicken, but because I had taken responsibility for  eating it. I had no longer averted my eyes while someone else slaughtered the chicken I ate, and no longer paid someone else for taking care of it for four months. I took full responsibility for that chicken's life and I had every right to eat it. Before I felt guilty because I had benefited in the results of  others work while never doing the work myself, but now I was as qualified as anyone.

It took hours of work, countless mornings getting up at still-dark  hours, and the life of a chicken for me to feel proud about what I eat and learn the true price of food. It is a lesson that should be learned by all people living on Earth, because it's what is keeping us alive. 

For now, my conscience  and my stomach are both satisfied.
-Noah the Foodie
That's Noah on the left with his mom & grandparents
That coming from a 12 year old!
 
Noah continues to take weekly cooking  lasses and it seems that his interest in food and cooking is just growing  stronger! He may just be the next Michael Pollan....

Friday, January 27

Podcast from Italy: Sausages, Salami & Strikes

Jason, Dr. Gaggi & Vittorio prepare the meat for curing salami, Le Marche Italy
Start your day with a cappuccino and get into the Italian state of mind as we talk about our favorite winter activity - sausage & salami making! Jason shares our simple recipe and explains how simple sausage making is. Currently there are 90 kilos of meat curing in the rafters upstairs! We laugh as we retell stories of Doctor Gaggi & his impromptu sausage tests he gives Jason, not ready to hand-over the reigns. Chat about the 'charm's of country living in the winter - it may be romantic stone farmhouse, but its hard as hell to heat! We recap some of winters events and don't miss the fitting word of the week.

Thursday, January 26

Buon Giorno - Mornings Make Me Happy

photo along our road - via Candigliano

Good morning from Le Marche. (Yup, that's it)

Monday, January 23

Unearthing A Culinary Rarity: Cheese from a Pit with Vittorio Beltrami, Le Marche


 The Italian Einstein of cheese, Vittorio Beltrami, recognized as one of the best, most well-respected & charismatic cheese makers from the Marche region graciously invited us to a special event, centuries old, at the Beltrami oil mill in Cartoceto - the unearthing of the famous formaggio di fossa (pit-aged cheese).

Formaggio di Fossa is considered one of the most delicious culinary rarities from Romagna and Marche. According to legend, it seems that the origin of the cheese dates back to the 1400’s when farmers would defend themselves & their supplies by hiding in pits. Then months later after the war ended & the cheese was unearthed they were met with a flavorful surprise!  

the pit and the cheese, Le Marche Italy
Centuries later the method of cheese curing is still practiced. In late August the cheese is prepared and placed in cloth bags. The pits are dug to a depth of several meters and then filled with wheels of cheese and beds of straw. Then the pits are sealed with a wooden lid and then plaster atop. The cheese remains underground for 90 days during which it acquires the characteristic aroma of moss, sulfur and truffle making it incredibly pungent & unique. The pits are open for the feast of St. Catherine and the cheese is removed.

Freshly removed cheese from the pit, formaggio di fossa in Le Marche, Italy
We descend into the cavern that houses the pits below the floor, the air fills with musty mold and cold stone. We peer deep into the the hole amazed that such a simple thing - literally a pit, can create the perfect climate to create a delicious & unique tasting & smelling cheese.  Because of this rich flavor it is best to eat this cheese with fruit & honey, broken into wedges with bread or grated atop pasta and pairs perfect with crisp Pecorino or a rich round red like a Lacrima Superiore.

As Vittorio address the room, he proudly acknowledges the work of his sheep without them there would be no cheese, he looks up with a smile & trademark twinkle in his eyes!

Lunch lasted more than 3 hours of cheeses with apples, lentil soup, panzanella, pasta with formaggio di fossa and you guessed it, cheese for dessert. We helped ourselves to bottles of local wine - reds, whites & rose, just grab a bottle & bring it to your table. At one point Vittorio enters the room and introduces an artisan pasta maker from the region thanking him for contributing to lunch, proclaiming how pasta was first created in Le Marche! I don’t know if its true, but he got the reaction he was looking for - knowing nods of approval, as if to say "Of course pasta was made here!"

Like Jason & I, Vittorio is not only proud of what he produces, but of all the other fabulous artisans surrounding him - if there was a theme to this lunch it was all things local: local apples, local lentils, local wine, local bread, local produce, local people. And this is wonderfully typical in Le Marche.

The atmosphere was festive & flavorful - filled with pride for all the delicious treasures this region has to offer!

Vittorio Beltrami and his wife serving lunch
  No matter what time of year, it is worth a visit to Gastronomia Beltrami to meet the Beltrami family, taste their delicious cheeses and discover a true Italian artisan and culinary legend at work. Cheese Master Vittorio Beltrami also produces extra virgin olive oil with selected olives grown and harvested in Cartoceto as well as jams and jellies prepared to suit each individual cheeses unique flavor.

If you are visiting Italy in the fall, then don't miss Cartoceto (Le Marche) on the last Sunday of November to take part in Vittorio Beltrami’s pit-opening; his pits are located on the site of the Frantoio della Rocca. It will be an unforgettable experience!

Saturday, January 21

Home Cured Meat: 100+lbs of Sausages Hanging from the Rafters


It's our fourth year making homemade sausages, salami, lonzo & prosciutto, slowly curing the meats over the winter from the rafters of our farmhouse in Italy. Read stories from past years: Meat Curing 101: Homemade Sausages & Salami  and Charcuterie in Italy: 150lbs of Sausages & Salami

Well, you'd think we were from Texas because our slogan seems to be: go big or go home! And we tend to go BIG especially when it comes to meat. Walk into one of the bedrooms on the 2nd floor and you'd think you entered a meat locker. The smell draws you in and you eyes can't imagine it to be true - row upon row of sausage links dangling from the rafters - a mighty meaty view if you were lying in bed!

This year we have more meat to cure than ever as the requests have been pouring in from friends & neighbors requesting 10 kilos at a time on-top of our normal allotment for guests, dinners & gifts. So this year we are doing it in batches making over 200 lbs in total!

Round 1: 50 kilos of sausages: ground, stuffed & hanging to cure.
Reward: Dinner is on - fresh made sausages, grilled on iron in the kitchen fireplace!!
There's no place like home...

Wednesday, January 18

Italian Sloe Liquor: A Rare & Exquisite Digestivo (After Dinner Drink)


Our woods are filled with plump deep blue sloe (blackthorn) berries, prugnole (or in local dialect brugnole). With stained sticky fingers, I gather them just in the nick of time during the late fall, waiting for them to be soft but not mealy and more importantly before the other booze makers can get to them! 

That's right, just like local ladies have done for centuries I collect kilos of prugnole to be soaked in pure alcohol and made into a delicious port-like after dinner drink (digestivo) known as a prugnolino.  I am very proud of my boozing because I can't cook, this is what I proudly contribute to the table. This is also an honored tradition to continue making homemade liquors and brings with it serious bragging rights when done right. The secret to creating a nice smooth flavor is time - the longer it sits, the better it tastes.
 
Sloe Gin of Italy
Prugnolino - recipe from the Candigliano Valley
1 kilo of sloe
1 litre of pure grain alcohol (or gin)
1/2 liter of white wine
250 grams sugar

Wash the sloe well.
Mix together & let sit 30-40 days in air tight jar - mixing every so often.
Filter well with cheese cloth.
Let sit in cool dark place - Wait for another year to start serving,  however some start drinking immediately. I think over time the flavors round out so nicely.

Spiced Sloe
500 grams sloe
250 grams sugar
750 ml pure grain alcohol (or gin)
cinnamon stick
4 cloves
oranges zest

Clean sole berries/fruit well. Using a tooth pick, prick the sloe here & there so the alcohol can really penetrate the fruit.
Mix together all the ingredients in an large air tight jar.
Let sit in a cool dark place for 3-6 months, mixing every so often.
Filter well with cheese cloth into serving bottle.

Monday, January 16

Cooking with Spring’s Wild Edibles in Le Marche, Italy

Foraging for wild radicchio under the Castle of the Sheep Herder
Fields of wild radicchio ready to be picked, young nettle perfect for tongue tingling ravioli, rich & creamy artichoke risotto - the flavors of Spring in Le Marche.  Learn to cook with the seasons - artichoke risotto, asparagus with salsa verde, grilled wild radicchio crostini with cherry tomatoes, stinging nettle & ricotta ravioli, delicate frittata with wild greens & aged traditional balsamic vinegar.
 
29 March - 2 April  2012 (4 Nights) from 490 Euro/ Person

 4 nights accommodations, guided wild edible walk, 2 half day cooking class with apron & cookbook gift, two meals with wine, five course dinner and breakfast daily. (Price based on apartment PESCA, double occupancy.)

For more details: info@latavolamarche.com


Friday, January 6

Taste Italia - 4 Winter Recipes


Pick up the January 2012 Issue of Taste Italia packed with over 50 Italian recipes including a few favorites from our farmhouse: Fennel with Blood Oranges,  Stuffed Eggplant, Duck Ragu with Tagliatelle and Lavender Orange Cake. 

This is my last column for Taste Italia, I am excited to announce that I have been asked to return to Italia! Magazine & I'm bringing my column, "Notes from Le Marche, from Field to Fork" with me!
Don't miss a bite - starting in the March 2012 Issue of Italia!

Tuesday, December 27

Lavender Love: Rosemary Cake with Lavender Glaze


As part of my lavender craze this year - I became addicted to this simple yogurt cake with rosemary topped with the most mouthwatering lavender glaze! The rosemary - lavender combination is delicate & delicious!

The batter is exceedingly versatile, as you could just as well substitute the rosemary for thyme, or orange zest, if it catches your fancy. It is best to use whole fat dairy when baking and this is no exception - we use a thick creamy Italian whole fat yogurt, Greek yogurt would work wonderfully as well. The cake keeps well for up to a week, guaranteeing a couple of days worth of breakfasts and nibbles -- that is if you can show restraint & not eat it in one sitting!

Rosemary Cake With Lavender Glaze Recipe

Makes one 9-by-3-inch loaf

For the Cake:
5 ounces/ 140 grams all-purpose flour

1½ teaspoons baking powder

Pinch of salt

5 ounces/ 144 grams sugar

2-3 inch sprig of rosemary, leaves picked and finely chopped
3 ounces/ 90 grams plain yogurt
2 large eggs

2¼ ounces/ 63 grams vegetable

Method:
Preheat the oven to 340F/ 175C. Butter a 9-by-3-inch loaf pan and place it on a baking sheet.
Stir together the flour, baking powder and salt, set aside.

In a medium bowl, stir together the sugar and chopped rosemary, then add the yogurt and eggs and whisk vigorously until all the ingredients are well blended. Add the dry ingredients, whisking to incorporate, then fold in the oil with a rubber spatula. The batter is ready when it’s smooth, thick and has a satin-like sheen. Pour the batter into the pan.

Bake for about 50-55 minutes, or until the cake’s edges start to pull away from the sides of the pan. The cake should be golden brown and a cake tester inserted in the middle of the loaf should be clean.
Run a knife between the cake and the pan’s sides, let cool to room temperature before glazing or slicing.

For the Glaze:
Ingredients:
½ cup milk

1 tablespoon dried lavender buds

1 cup confectioner’s sugar

Method:
Place the milk in a saucepan over medium heat. When it starts to boil, take the pan off the heat and add the dried lavender buds. Let the mixture steep for 5-8 minutes, then strain the milk, and whisk it into the sugar, a tablespoon at a time, until you get a smooth and opaque glaze. Pour or spoon over the cooled loaf.

More Lavender Recipes:

Saturday, December 24

Buon Natale


 Merry Christmas ~ Buon Natale
Wishing you all a festive holiday filled with pasta & Prosecco!
Tanti auguri per un anno pieno di salute, felicita' e cibo delizioso!

Thank you all for everything!
~ Ashley & Jason, cats & chickens

Saturday, December 10

Top 10 Christmas Gifts for the Italophile

From $5 to $500, this gift giving guide is perfect for the lover of all things Italian. Whether if it's for you or someone special on your Christmas list, at any budget you can say Buon Natale!

Top 10 Christmas Gifts for the Lover of Italy
1. Adopt an olive tree from Nudo Olive Oil in Le Marche! Imagine dunking your bread in your own oil from your own tree thousands of miles away on a hillside in Italy. Adoption includes certificate & two deliveries of olive oil.  - $109

2. The Marling Menu-Master for Italy: A Comprehensive Manual for Translating the Italian Menu
Stick this pocket guide in your pocket, order with confidence and never go hungry in Italy!  - $9.95

3.  Make pasta at home with the Atlas Pasta Machine, simple to use & will last a lifetime. (Skip the temptation to buy the pasta drying racks - totally unnecessary - a clean sheet will do!) - $75

4. I like to tell people to "get lost" in Italy, part of the fun is exploring back roads and small villages but you can easily get lost without a good map (and trust me, don't rely solely on a GPS.) The best of the best is the spiral bound Michelin Atlas Italy - $15

5. Parli Italiano? Give the gift of language with Rosetta Stone, the tried & true way to learn Italian at home. - Special $399

Thursday, December 8

Eat Your Greens: Savory Chard & Prosciutto Tart

Eating your greens, never tasted so good: Savory Chard & Prosciutto Tart
Nutrient rich swiss chard goes by many names (bietola in Italian), found in many colors and is a cousin of kale. Chard is a hearty green with a nice bitter bite, holding up better than spinach when cooking. Its fibrous leaves wilt nicely into soups, perfect simply sauteed with garlic & olive oil or elevated to more than just a leafy green when mixed with prosciutto and packed into a savory pie shell!

Garden Tip: Chard is a regenerating plant meaning you can cut it to eat & it will reproduce more leafy greens.
Chard Tart Recipe
Torta di Bietola


Pastry Dough
2 3/4 Cups (250 gr) all purpose flour
3/4 Cup (150 gr.) butter, cut into pieces
1 egg
2-3 Tablespoons ice water
pinch of salt

Sift flour into a mound, add the butter & pinch of salt. Rub together with your fingers or food processor. When mixture resembles crumbly coarse sand incorporate the egg & water. Knead 2-3 times.
Form into a disk, wrap in plastic and place in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour.

Filling
2 Cups (400 gr) of cooked, drained and squeezed dry greens (chard, spinach, escarole, etc.)
1 Cup (250 gr.) sheep’s milk ricotta cheese
zest of half a lemon
generous handful of Parmesan
2-3 slices of prosciutto, chopped
salt & pepper
1 egg, separated

Cook your greens in boiling, salted water depending on the toughness (spinach may only need 20-30 seconds, chard needs 3-4 minutes).  Drain and squeeze as much liquid as you can out of the greens. Combine the greens in a bowl with the ricotta, parmesan, lemon, prosciutto, salt & pepper. Taste & check your seasonings.

To Assemble the Tart:
Preheat oven to 350 F/ 185 C

Remove the dough from the refrigerator and split in half. Roll out dough to 1/4 inch or 1/2 cm thickness and line the bottom of a tart or pie pan. (We use 9-inch or 25 cm but you can make individual tarts as well.)

Once pastry is lined in pan, brush with egg white then fill with a generous amount of the chard mixture (filling in evenly).
Top with the other half of the dough, rolled out to the same thickness. Pinch the edges, closing the tart securely. Brush the top with egg yolk. Cut 2-3 slits to allow  the steam to escape.

Place in oven, bake 45 minutes - 1 hour until pastry is golden brown & filling is bubbly. Serve warm or room temperature.

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